Birsay- Dounby

10 miles on foot, Birsay to Dounby, Orkney.

For the first time I am in Orkney with my family; it has been wonderful to be able to share my delight in these islands with those closest to me, and to introduce them to the new friends and allies that this project has brought forth. We were all in attendance at the St Magnus Way launch festival for a programme of Orcadian and Norwegian music about journeys, featuring James Watson’s composition for the project on Hardanger fiddle and piano. I am no musician, and perhaps James will put me right, but in the arrhythmic repetition of the piece I hear the motion of waves, and I see the sudden emergence of a walker over a hill, or a ship on the horizon when the fiddle comes in, with a tune that I will gladly carry with me as I walk. 

Having had a difficult time walking the first twelve miles back in April, I am relieved to be able to write that the next ten miles were, in fact, a pleasure to do. The trailer, taken in hand by Antony and co. had an easier time of it too. Its main frame is now a sack trolley of rigid, welded steel that can go the distance, with two wheels that run on bearings in the middle of the frame. The load can be centred over the axel and secured there, thereby taking all the weight from my arms. And this is the comfortable way we proceeded, six of us walking together- a good pace from Birsay to Dounby, in sunshine that was melting the road.

Such was our pace, and our slightly tactical diversion, that we were able to wait for the rest of the Magnus Way walkers at the barn where Elspeth, Inga and Benjy were stationed to provide a welcome on the road. We spent a happy half hour in their company, benefiting from the refreshments they had for us! They were the first to stand in the stone that day and the most curious of any of the participants! Benjy’s knowledge of the potential pitfalls of the trailer was as good as any mechanic's.

In a few days we will move onto the boat, anticipating a 5am departure from Stromness on Thursday. I am looking forward to having The Orkney Boat on a traditional Shetlandic herring fishing vessel! Originally launched in 1900, the SWAN is now used as a training vessel based in Lerwick, but is in Stromness harbour for the Folk Festival, and will take us to Bergen, on the west coast of Norway, before it returns to Shetland. She is all wood, with a new mizzen mast, gaff rigged, with red sails and a green hull - truly a beautiful sight.

I would just like to make mention of something that happened at the last walk (Evie to Birsay) back in April, as it was only one of a few instances so far that a "stander" has spoken out from the stone. Please forgive the disruption of the chronological order. Without being aware of the historical precedent of standing in footprint stones to vote or be empowered to speak, Helen announced that she felt she could not stay quiet any longer and would be standing in her local elections. "Standing in the stone, feeling its solidity and power, I dedicate myself to the political process. If the people of Orkney want me, may it be so, if not, then not - whatever the outcome, all is well." I hope that Helen won’t mind me saying that we were both quite moved by the experience. As always, I greatly appreciate people’s open mindedness and engagement. I am signing off this post with another of my favourite photographs of a 'standing' so far.