Saturday 10 June 2017

On board the Swan


Stromness to Bergen: 317 nautical miles across the North Sea, 2.5 days on board the SWAN.
Here follows an extract from my account of our days at sea:




02/06/2017: 10.00

59°46.`8N 007°22.`5E

CTS 90° Wind SE/F3 Visibility poor. Sea slight. Sails: Main 3R, jib, fsail, mizzen.

Just off watch. Toby and I are on 6-10, morning and evening, with Thorben (skipper) and Maggie (boson). It is a good watch to have, as it is not so necessary for us to get our heads down during the day. Last night was long, and cold, even in borrowed oil skins. The wind was slight and we were under motor. I thought a lot about Scott’s journals and wondered if I could do this expedition the same justice. A few people got quite sick below deck; a nasty convergence of waves built up as they bounced off North Ronaldsay, and again in the shallower waters south of Fair Isle. No sight of land since we lost Fair Isle. The AIS tells us that there are a few oil rigs out there, but visibility is too poor to make them out. We don’t expect to see any land but Norway now, and we are pretty much on a straight course due east to Bergen. A radio call from Shetland coastguard this morning informed us that we had dropped off the AIS, which led to a focused “fog watch” punctuated only by making porridge for us all - 13 in total - a welcome opportunity to stand, stirring, over a hot stove. The trailer is nestled among the food stores, fore; I think it is helping to brace the boxes and sweeping brushes, and the stone, in its wrapping, is stowed beneath the passage way. It gets a bit of rain and sea spray when the hatch is open.

14.15

59°50.`19N 002°15.`34E

CTS 90° Wind SE/F4 Visibility moderate. Sea slight. Sails: Main, jib, fsail, mizzen.

All hands on deck to shake out the reef! We are under sail only now and our new eta into Bergen is 11.30 tomorrow. Better visibility but still drizzling. The occasional gannet is a welcome sight. Our watch is off duty, playing cards below deck.

22.00

59°59.`9N 003°42.`2E

CTS 080° Wind SW/F3 Visibility moderate. Sea moderate. Sails: Main 3R

Deepest part of the North Sea. The depth gauge has gone haywire - 1000 metres plus of ocean beneath us. This has changed the nature of the waves to a long high swell. It is a lovely evening, though we are under motor once more. The main sail was luffing hard and sending the occasional loud crack whipping across the deck. Thorben had us wake more of the crew to reef the main sail, and take down the jib, foresail and mizzen for good. It has been an exciting watch - the warmest yet, dashing about with sail ties and tailing lines where we were instructed. Fishing Trawlers on the AIS invisible in the fog. I will be sorry to disembark tomorrow. I am just becoming comfortable with life
at sea, with its rules and rotas and teamwork, moving between watch, galley and bunk. When I am woken up for my watch tomorrow morning, Norway will be in sight.


6am - Norway in sight


Fog lifting further up the fjords

Moored in Bergen

The Orkney Boat on deck

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