Dovrefjell- Fokstagu- Oppdal

Dear Friends and Allies of The Orkney Boat,

After 6 days in the mountains we have successfully crossed Dovrefjell with the stone and we are preparing for the next stretch in Oppdal. I won’t write much about the physical challenge of the journey, except to say that the photos belie the faithful, entire experience. It took both of us to make almost every single step. What you see here are the moments of grace and contentment - there were some agonising days that, for good or bad, have gone undocumented, because for those moments you need a somewhat removed documentary photographer. Thankfully we are without injury, only exhausted, and talking already of how the memories of the horror fade, to be eclipsed by the good, which are magnified. However, we are grateful for what looks to be an easier two week stretch into Trondheim. Marianne - our great wagon! - survived her mountain ordeal and is running smoothly. Shame that I didn’t have the horsepower to match her!

We came from Dovre, over the aptly named Hardbakken, to follow the Kongvegen (King’s Path) to Fokstagu. The size of rocks and gradient of the ascent required us to carry The Orkney Boat over significant distances. Our descent to Fokstugu was no easier, the path being cut deep into the bank only a foot wide. However, on arriving at Fokstugu Farm, intending only to make some tea and move on, we were met unexpectedly by Juergen who was painting the bridge in exchange for his lodgings. This was delight enough, but there followed a request from the owners that we stay a night too, to recover and rest. These were a good couple of days - we benefited hugely from the peace of the place and the affirmation and interest that was abounding regards our journey with The Orkney Boat.

When we returned to the path we were able to follow a better road, fit for bicycles, through Dovrefjell National Park, to Hjerkinn. It rained heavily a full day, during which we sought advice about the upcoming terrain (all of which was well meant, most of which got us into difficulty. No matter!) We walked a spectacular ascent to Hjerkinnshøe before our success rapidly unravelled outside Kongsvold. The Orkney Boat has, however, greeted a Norwegian cairn at 1,300 metres, encountered two moose and an adder and had an examination from a curious red squirrel. We did not glimpse any of the famous Moskusokse of Dovrefjell, except in this glass case at Oppdal train station; probably a good thing since we cannot cut a very hasty retreat!

If it were not for the goodness of well-wishers at the river, Minke, Juergen, Laurits and Christiana, Dieter and Arvind, a team of NSB staff who allowed me to flag down the train at 4am, and a stranger and his small son visiting from Oslo, this chapter might have ended differently.